Week 9 – the Richmond Ranges

Day 56 – Red Hills Hut

I’m back on the trail for my final stretch of TA! The wedding in Fiji was as eventful as one could be.

I flew into Nelson, and after 3 successful hitches, I arrived in St Arnaud. Happy to be back on trail after a crazy holiday.

Stunning view already from just an hour of climb – I can already tell this section is going to be beautiful! Face of a chuffed hiker back in the forest below

I arrived at Red Hills Hut where I met 5 NOBOs to my surprise. I was pleased to see I had company for this challenging section. The days had noticeably gotten shorter and it was dark by 19.00

Day 57 – Hunter’s Hut

My body felt the aftermath of the 2 weeks of rest – my pack felt like a fridge on my back again, hips felt locked, knees stiff, all in line with the hardest section of the South Island.

I had a beautiful blue sky – I’m amazed at just how blessed I’ve been with the weather all throughout TA – both South Island and North Island.

Today’s track was through a beautiful forest with the occasional scree drop which required a lot of scrambling with your hands. I hiked with a British girl called Hannah – she had already biked Tour Aotearoa, and now wanted to hike TA as well. What an inspiration.

Ah, it feels good to be back on the trail. Moving my legs 10 hours a day. Though my body was not in the greatest condition. My hip joint gave out a sharp pain with every step like I was a doll and my limbs were ripping. Regardless, the track was fun and interesting with ever-changing sceneries.

Day 58 – Mid Wairoa Hut

The mornings were seriously starting to get cold! It also only gets light from 07.00, my days were starting out much later than I anticipated.

I really liked how different Richmond Ranges felt in comparison to Nelson Lakes. RR felt like the older brother that required more technical skills (except for Waiau Pass). Some sections you think – seriously? Up / Down there? – a sketchy near-vertical drop where you are either scrabbling up loose rocks or if descending, holding onto your hiking poles for your life. That describes this whole range perfectly actually.

The weather turned and we had rain start during our ascend up to Mt Ellis. The view from the summit was still pretty albeit the misty clouds. I started jogging to Top Wairoa Hut for lunch – til I slipped on mud and tumbled down the track. I humbly returned back to walking after that. Not qualified to be a trail runner (yet).

The moment I saw the bright orange hut I couldn’t help but run again – nothing beats the feeling of seeing the hut you’ve been searching for. The little things in life.

From Top Wairoa hut to Mid Wairoa hut was a gradual fun descent in the forest. It involved a lot of rock climbing – and in the wet rain, the rocks felt extra sketchy. I’ve never put so much trust in the grip of my shoes in my entire life. I arrived at Mid Wairoa Hut around 17.00, and quickly had a wash by the river. Yes, my hygienic routine was still in place despite the freezing evenings.

Day 59- Rintoul Hut

We were back to stunning weather again the next day. I absolutely adored this day.

I was still with 3 other NOBOs, a couple fell back behind at Top Wairoa Hut. The day immediately started with a 1,500m ascent up to Purple Top Summit. The track is in the forest all the way to Tarn Hut, which was the cutest spot ever. I remember thinking I could live here, as long as I get my groceries helicoptered in. I had lunch with Hannah in the sun, absolutely stoked with how the day was going so far.

I was excited to reach Rintoul Hut- I’ve heard of many great things. After lunch was an undulating terrain until the peak, then a short descent to the Hut. 16 km in total. Our days weren’t covering large distances on this range but I was still having 9-10 hour days due to the elevation.

Rintoul Hut was in a cute spot with a view of Nelson city. There was a reception here for us to update on the weather forecast. It was looking good for the next 2 days but rain was coming in slowly. I spent the night here with Hannah and Tara (from Melbourne). In the last 4 days, we’ve only come across 2 SOBOs. Some of the last ones for this season. With such a small number of hikers, water availability at the huts wasn’t an issue. The tank was at least 1/3 or half full. Not having to conserve water on this section was one of my reasons for walking NOBO after all, and it felt great.

Day 60 – Slaty Hut

The day of the famous Rintoul Mountains! I even had a dream this morning about this climb. I’ve been hearing about this specific day for quite some time – the infamous scree scramble. I was wary after hearing so many heads up. The last thing I wanted was to slide down and never make the finish of TA.

I wish I had taken photos of the climb. Out of the forest was a continuous ascent on scree. The air was crisp and shards of ice had formed underneath the rocks, making every step a satisfying crunch sound. The ascend was actually fun! Felt sketchy at times but I enjoyed the challenge.

I got out my pick-me-up snack and noticed a rat had bitten a chunk of my muesli bar. Tara said she felt something jump on her face during her sleep…. the cheeky rascal.

Peak of Big Rintoul

And look at the day for it too – lucky lucky me. Surprisingly the view was better from Little Rintoul – In the picture above you can see the peak of Big Rintoul and the track on the ridge that descends down up to Little Rintoul (where I’m standing).

The track was dodgy today but nothing close to what I dreamt about or what I’ve been hearing from others. We had a 360-degree view, and couldn’t decide which direction was our favourite! Had a long scenic lunch stop here with Hannah and Tara

Just as I thought the day couldn’t get any better after Mt. Rintoul – the rest of the track to Slaty Hut was just as breathtaking. The trail stayed on the ridge so we had a panoramic view for most of the day. The last 5km to the hut was so stunning that it felt wasteful to keep on moving. I know it’s cheesy, but I remember thinking if heaven was a place on Earth it’ll be up here. Out here, nothing matters. Out here, I feel safe.

Everything about today was lovely and enjoyable. Tara said she couldn’t stop crying from awe the whole day. It didn’t quite make me cry like that but I felt serenity and peace. Something I needed after a whirlwind of an emotional turmoil holiday. Weddings bring out the best and the worst in people, unfortunately. But it’s okay, I have all the mountains in the world to heal in.

I wish I had taken a photo of Slaty Hut, it was really nice with a view. I had the coldest bottle wash on TA here, butt naked in the forest.

An American hiker from Montana joined us three at the hut, he hiked TA 3 years ago but felt the calling to come back to NZ to see the Richmond Ranges again. I understand. I’ll be back here for sure.

Day 61 – Browning Hut

A short hike today – I deserve it after 4 long days! After checking the weather at Starveall Hut where it had reception, I saw forecasted rain for tomorrow. I had enough food (so I thought) for an extra day so I decided to have a rest day at Browning Hut.

The rest of the track in RR til I got out was in the forest, crossing rivers occasionally. During lunch, I noticed that I left my favourite spoon at Slaty Hut. I was way too upset than anyone should be over a spoon. But it was a damn cool titanium spoon.

I was hoping to see someone at Browning Hut when I arrived. Secret fact about me: Despite all the nights camping alone, I still get spooked from the dark. I like hiking alone but at night? I want company! I accepted by 6 pm that I was going to be alone. I chopped some wood for myself and made a fire to boil water to save the little gas I had left.

Day 62 – Rest day in Browning Hut

I had horrible sleep listening to the scratches and footsteps of a residing Remy the rat all night long. The rain started to pick up in the morning and continued til the next day. With no reception here, it was a cozy morning in my sleeping bag watching LOTR downloaded on my phone. The river nearby which was my water source had become all muddy and brown. Just before lunchtime, I met Luk, a Dutch SOBO who had turned up at the hut soaking wet. He had plans to push onto Starveall Hut but ended up staying the night here (yes – company!). He told me of his plans to kayak from Australia to Papa New Guinea by himself. I later found out he was the last proper SOBO of TA (not including section hikers) and was on the newspaper of Invercargill. It really is all the people you meet and share stories with that make the TA experience.

*Internal thought* – Luk’s vape ran out of battery at this hut, and seeing him panic as he realises the next civilisation stop is St Arnaud, got me grateful for never picking up this habit.

Day 63 – Captains Creek Hut (Last hut ever on TA)

I parted with Luk, wished him good luck for 1. a dead vape, 2. for the rest of South Island as it would be getting frosty by the time he reached Bluff, and 3. for his adventures on the kayak.

The track to Rocks Hut (my lunch destination) was an undulating rugged ascent in the thick forest. Though it had stopped raining, my body was still getting soaked from all the overgrown bush covering the track. I arrived at Captain’s Creek Hut with not one sight of hikers all day. This was my very last hut on TA. It was situated right next to the river, which was still murky from the rain. I had a quick dip before making dinner. I can finally have a proper shower tomorrow. No one eventually turned up, and I spent the night alone again.

I was very low on everything – gas, food, and toilet paper. It doesn’t make the most enjoyable experience. I made fire again so I can at least use my gas to make porridge in the morning. I ate everything I had in my food bag (maybe not the wisest decision) as I heard there’s a cafe at Pelorus Bridge tomorrow. If that happens to be incorrect, I’m a little f*cked.

Day 64 – Pelorus Bridge Campsite

Food. My sole motivation for today. I dreamt about the cafe last night. I’ve been eating unsalted cashew nuts and tuna for the last 4 days, my taste buds were starting to get pissed off at me.

The track was beautiful – thick green NZ bush, and lots of ferns. Oh, and Billy Goats. You can smell them before you see them. It’s not a pleasant scent. If I were to describe it – like leather meat? A dead skin rug? Not so nice, though I heard someone say they find the smell delicious…

3 hours later I reached the gravel road. I was out of Richmond Ranges! Such a beautiful section, I’d like to hike it southbound next time. I walked the rest of the trail with a speedy pace listening to the last few minutes of LOTR – The Return of the King. *Frodo’s decision to leave Bag End and ship to Valinor always makes me sad.

At last – I arrived at Pelorus cafe and thankfully, it was open. I stuffed my face with a pie and a cake. One of the many many things I love about thru-hiking, you have this indescribable level of appreciation for food. You swear you’ll never take advantage of access to food ever again. If only that really was the case.

I met a lovely Canadian traveller at the campground, Lukas. We shared a bottle of red wine that he had – a nice celebration for completing the Richmond Ranges.

I had my first electrical shower in 9 days here. Words can’t describe how that felt. Oh, the feral life of hiking, I love it!

Next (and last) section: Queen Charlotte Track; the finale