October 29 2023
Routeburn Track – Great Walk
Routeburn is another popular Great Walk that passes through Fiordland and Mt Aspiring National Park. You can start either from Glenorchy or the Great Divide. We started from Glenorchy, hiring a car relocation service to The Divide. We hiked this track right before the season opened up on Nov 1, which is the only way you can hike Great Walks these days with how quickly the huts get booked out in advance.
Days prior to our departure, we’ve been closely monitoring the weather as it wasn’t looking great. We decided to send it regardless of the rain, as long as the wind stayed low. Nothing a $30 warewhare pants can’t protect. Last-minute chaotic packing below.
Day 1 – Routeburn Falls Hut
A 3.5 hour drive from Dunedin to the start of Routeburn track. We started our hike at 13.00 after eating lunch at Glenorchy. Let’s goo.
The track started in this beautiful luscious forest alongside a stunning river. A few waterfalls here and there, making it an exciting start to the trailhead.
Before long, we came to an open flat with a view of the valley. I assumed this was a camp spot for those tenting. This was one of our many snack stops. With an overnight hike, I forget it’s only really a day and a half amount of food I need. I think I was carrying about 3 days worth – always get too excited at the store.
Today’s total ascend was 1,000m which wasn’t as noticeable over the distance of 13 km. We slightly felt the climb once we passed the turn-off for Flats Hut.
The rain had started for the last hour of the climb. And Goretex my ass. I was soaked through to my base layers even with my expensive Goretex raincoat. I blame the shitty brand Kathmandu.
We arrived at Routeburn Falls Hut which looked more like a luxurious lodge with 48 bunks. This felt more like glamping compared to the huts I was used to. It looked like it had been recently renovated (though I can’t find any information online when).
There were a few hikers here but most had come from the other direction, all arriving soaked just like the rest of us. My sleep was quite poor as I couldn’t stop having sleep paralysis on this night. Haunted hut?
Day 2 – Lake Mackenzie Hut
Snazzy matching warewhare rainpants
Forecasted for a better weather on this day – we were excited to see some stunning views. I finally ate my Radix breakfast I’ve been storing for a year. Apple, cinnamon and turmeric breakfast – it was earnestly disgusting and I couldn’t finish it. Radix dehydrated meals do not live up to the hype and weirdly this opinion was controversial on TA as everyone loved their stuff. I’m a Backcountry gal through and through.
From Routeburn Falls until Harris Saddle was a continuous ascent. The path got more interesting than the forest we were in and also a bit tougher. There was a huge waterfall just above the hut which was so so beautiful. We quickly layered on as the rain shower began and it was cold!
We were above the bush line now and climbed up the valley, plateauing every now and then. We were surrounded by such breathtaking sceneries – lakes and snowy mountains. I always mention this but I just love the subalpine plantation up high.
Snow! I get excited like a kid when I see them. Mountains just look so much more scenic with white dust on them, don’t they?
Eventually we reached the top of Harris Saddle, the highest point along the track at 1255m. Below, you can view the stunning Lake Harris.
The view was stunning!
A little further from the highest point stood Harris Shelter, which was our lunch spot. We all huddled inside, it was cold!
The track then gradually descended down along Hollyford Valley, with the view of Darren Mountains. Apparently on a clear day, you can even see Tasman Sea to the right. I’m not sure if we were able to, but the weather had improved by the afternoon and we were lucky enough to see blue sky. This section was particularly beautiful as you walk alongside a ridge with an open view of the valley until you reach the forest – if you don’t have clingy clouds blocking the view.
Once we came to an open view looking down Lake Mackenzie, the track from here onwards was a zig zag switchback all the way until the hut. We descended in this beautiful mossy forest, and right before the hut came to an open valley.
Here we had a quick naked dip in the lake – freezing cold!
We reached Lake Mackenzie Hut at around 5pm, and had the option of choosing between two huts. We chose the empty one situated above. I can’t remember what the warden was like here (they usually leave an impression on me but can’t remember this one). We had our dinners with a scenic view from the deck of the hut. There is a short track from here that takes you to the camping area (10 mins) alongside the Lake or a longer one which takes an hour. None of us carried sandals so we gave it a miss but next time!
I remember having a sleeping cold night in my summer sleeping bag here – time to purchase a warmer one!
Fern sandal competition
Day 3 – Lake Mackenzie to The Divide
The third and final day of Routeburn was the easiest stretch. After the slight ascent from the hut, it was a gradual descent into the forest. There was a detour that required scrambling up a bush which I couldn’t help but think would have been a challenge for the more elderlies. Before long we were face to face with a massive waterfall of 174 meters, Earnest Falls. You can feel the strong force of wind from the waterfall, splashing us quite wet. It was beautiful in sight and quite magnificent but it was too cold for us to linger around!
From here was another 2 hours to The Divide carpark. Once we reached where Lake Howden Hut would have been (it was demolished back in 2020 due to landslide damage), there was a short climb up to Key Summit, where you can also see Lake Marian. Then we descended steadily to the carpark.
Many many cute bridges on Routeburn – think we counted over 30?
There was also a turn-off here to add a Greenstone loop Track if you wanted. This adds an extra day. We continued onto the carpark.
Fast forward to Jan 2023: I stayed at the Greenstone Hut on Te Araroa, it’s cool to see how close Te Araroa was to Routeburn. Many hikers added Routeburn as a detour but as I had already hiked it in November, I decided to stick to the official TA trail.
Anndd just like that – we arrived at the car park! *High fivesss* We did it! We then drove to Te Anau where we fuelled ourselves with food at a cafe (When I say we, I mean Stella, the legend who drove us here and back to Dunedin while we napped).
A successful trip with the gals!