Kyushu Trip w Jess

16 – 26 October 2023

Kyushu is a region (island) located in the southwestern part of the country. It’s rich in history, nature and national parks, it’s truly a shame most foreign tourists miss out on seeing Japan’s hidden gems as they mostly sightsee Toyko, Osaka, Kyoto and maybe Hiroshima (all big cities).

The island is composed of a complex system of volcanic ranges. The climate in the south is subtropical, and Kyushu is known for its subtropical vegetation.
Lots of volcanoes and geothermal hot springs to explore!
Just below Kagoshima is an island called Yakushima which I have been frothing to visit. We only covered the upper half of Kyushu but we will be back here for sure!

Kumamoto

Kumamoto Castle – deep history into the Japanese civil wars during the Sengoku Jidai (from 1467 to 1615) until the Edo period.
So much to learn about Japan’s deep history. Tokugawa Ieyasu who? (I’m joking Mama!)

Mount Aso – active volcano

The largest volcano in Japan!

Takachiho Gorge – Miyazaki Prefecture

We couldn’t believe of this hidden treature of a spot existing in Japan.
A surreal utopia, truly.

Beppu – Geothermal City

Beppu is a city in Oita prefecture, famous for its natural Onsen.
Being surrounded by many volcanoes, it has seven major geothermal hot spots, called “Seven Hells of Beppu”, Jigoku Meguri.

We then dipped into the nostalgic mineral mud Onsen, we’ve visited here a couple times in the past when we were kids.
A trip down the memory lane!

The heat offsets naturally from underground, with hot steaming mud smelling like sulfide.
We have a similar spring in Northalnd NZ called Ngawha Springs. Your skin feels like wonders afterwards!
As nice as it was, we smelt like sulfer for the rest of the Kyushu trip, especially our towel and clothes.

We fasted the whole day (almost) to treat ourselves with all you can eat Korean BBQ (Yakiniku).

Mount Kuju – stratovolcano

Famous for its Kouyou (autumn colours) in October and November.

Nagasaki – Port City

Nagasaki has an interesting history beyond the famous nuclear bomb in 1945.
Between 1639 and 1859, Nagasaki was the only port open in Japan.
This resulted in its fascinating multi-national history we see to this day.
There were many Dutch living in Nagasaki from 1609 when the Tokugawa Shogunate granted the Dutch permission to base their headquarters in Hirado. They were strictly segragated to residing in Deijima island, but were able to freely mingle with the people in Hirado area of Nagasaki. The buildings and streets in Deijima has a European Dutch-like feel to this day.

The first Church was also built here in Nagasaki, the Portugese first arrived from Europe and brought Christianity in 1587.
Protecting Shinto and Budhism, Japan then banned Christianity for 250 years from 1614 – 1873.
In mid 1637, the uprising in Shimabara started by hidden Christians led to the complete expulsion of all Europeans.

The view of Nagasaki from up high reminded us of Wellington a little bit.

Nagasaki Shinchi Chinatown – oldest Chinatown in Japan

Nagasaki was the only major port open to foreign trade during Japan’s era of isolation, and the Chinese were the only traders allowed in the city alongside the Dutch. Like Deijima, for the Dutch, Chinatown was initially a reclaimed island. Unlike the Dutch who had to reside and work exclusively on the single island of Deijima, Nagasaki’s Chinese traders were initially allowed to move around the city more freely. Later during the Edo Period, however, they were confined to live in a dedicated district surrounded by walls, close to their business.

Chinatown on the left, famous Champon Ramen invented in Nagasaki (chinese style ramen), Tonari no Tottoro on the right.

This day marked a very sad day at the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum. Reading the history of the tragedy on 9th August, 1945 wrecked our hearts.
War is so unnecessary, always has been, always will be.

I’ve been to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Musuem 4 years ago. It was gruesome (as it should be) and I couldn’t eat anything afterwards.
In contrast, the Nagasaki Museum focused heavily on the destruction of Nuclear Bomb invention, and all its efforts into the banning of Nuclear Weapon such as The Treaty on the Prohibition of Nuclear Weapons (TPNW).
As you walk into the first exhibition, you immediately read a huge sign Nagasaki must be the last place exposed to an Atomic Bomb.
Our eyes were already teary from the first few seconds of being there.

Shimabara & Unzen

Similiar to Beppu, there are many geothermal activities in Unzen, near Nagasaki. Located inside Unzen National Park, which was designated as Japan’s first national park in 1934, Unzen Hell has been a hot spring resort since the Meiji Period. There are around 30 geothermal fields that pump out natural hot spring from the ground every second. 
We really liked this neat little part of Nagasaki, and these geothermal fields were free to observe (unlike Beppu).
Though, Beppu definitely boasted more with the interesting vibrant colours of the hot springs.

We then checked out the Mount Unzen Disaster Museum. Mount Unzen, an active volcano has caused a great deal of destruction.

Eruption of 1972 in Edo Period – led to a destructive landslide and a tsunami, with a death toll of 15,000, making it the most deadly eruption in Japan.
Eruption of 1991 – Unzen erupted again in 1991, the pyroclastic flow killed a total of 43 people. This time around, people were warned of the predicted eruption and was told to evacuate. However, the mountain was still filled with firemen, police, scientists, journalists and farmers.

Arita

Our last stop before heading back home was Arita.
Jess loves her pottery, and Arita village in Saga prefecture is the most famous town in Japan for porcelain pottery.
So it would have been silly not to visit here!
Up until this visit, I didn’t know anything about porcelain. To my surprise, the history was a lot more interesting that I thought!

History of Arita Porcelain

Called Arita-yaki or Imari-yaki, Arita Porcelain is famed throughout the world.
The origin of porcelain dates back to 618 B.C in China, slowly spreading to Korea.
Japan’s success of invasion in Korea resulted in many feudal lords bringing back skilled potters to Japan to teach the practice of porcelain making and many various techniques.
In early 17th century a Korean potter Kanagae Sanbee living in Japan discovered a source of kaolin underneath the Izumiyama mountain in Arita, and began firing the nation’s first porcelain.
There was a great demand of trade in porcelain from Europe and India, so to keep out competitors entering the market, Arita-yaki was practiced in private with walls hiding all the windows.
During a Chinese trade ban, Japan became the primary maker and trader of porcelain for European buyers. After China entered the market again, the number of trades in Arita decreased again (can’t beat the original masters of pottery I guess!) but today Arita-yaki is appreciated by many throughout the world.

The rock with kaolin in Arita.

Compared to normal ceramic, porcelain are made from a finer clay called kaolin with additives, such as quartz and feldspar. The rock is smashed into tiny particles (sand) and from there they create clay by adding water. The procedure takes a lot more effort and time than ordinary ceramic, making the value of porcelain much higher. Porcelain is also denser and harder than ceramic, so it’s more resistant to chipping. It also has the ability to be stretched out thinner than ceramic, creating a transparent look to the pottery.

Wallah, fascinating init!

End of the Kyushu trip! We caught the overnight bus back to Kobe (because Shinkansen is expensive!).
We’ve still yet to explore the bottom half of Kyushu – a lot more hiking & sightseeing to come!