Week 1 – Bluff to Birchwood

Day 1 – Stirling Point to Bluff Backpacker’s (8km)

Starting Te Araroa again felt surreal. This decision to hike the second half of NZ was sudden, and I spontaneously quit my job and booked my flights. With my emotions running high, I arrived in Invercargill after crying throughout my entire flight. I then caught my first hitchhike for this season to Bluff. I walked to Stirling Point to start my journey, meeting a fellow TA hiker already on km one. He had worries about not meeting anyone walking Northbound. I told him that shouldn’t be a problem with this year’s record number of TA walkers. The 8km was nice and short on a DOC track, overlooking Bluff on a hill. My journey has begun.

Funny coincidence: A guy recognised me at the backpackers in Bluff. It turns out he was one of my trail angels last year in North Island. I stayed at his flat in Waipu!
What a small country NZ is.

The decision to walk northbound from Bluff to Picton instead of vice versa was a hard one. I had to let go of my stubborn dream of finishing my journey here where the iconic signpost stood. I had started at Cape Reinga after all, so it only made sense to finish at the southern end of NZ, I thought. However, I changed my mind after hearing the record number of TA hikers this year (6,000 registered walkers vs. 500 last year) as I wanted to avoid walking in the hiker’s bubble. Especially over the section on Richmond Ranges as your water source in that stretch solely relies on tanks at huts. There were many other reasons attracting me to hike northbound, such as finishing my journey on the beautiful Queen Charlotte Track and building my fitness for the harder stretch of Nelson Lakes & RR.

Day 2 – Bluff to Invercargill

Day 2 was a 30km road walk to Invercargill. I started with my very first TA buddy, Philipp, a German keen hiker who I eventually walked with for 2 months. Out of too much excitement, we chatted a bit too much, making me very thirsty on a very hot day. My feet felt the long stretch for the last 10 km. I had minimal training for the trail due to my spontaneous decision. My pack felt like a fridge on my back and I had slight anxiety over how long I would last with this weight.

I arrived at the Invercargill campsite, where I met a familiar face in the lounge. After talking to him I found out he was the SOBO hiker I met on TA last year at Waitomo Caves. Just how small is NZ?

It took me some time getting used to the long daylight of Southland, the sun setting at 9.30 p.m and it doesn’t get dark until 10.30 – 11 p.m…!

Day 3 – Invercargil to Riverton

34km to Riverton. These first few days are known to be grim, and I was glad to be starting my journey here than finishing it. The day began on the road until we hit the beach for 23 km. We had another stunning weather but didn’t have shelter or shade for the whole day. It was very hot.

something about beach walking – it takes it out of ya

My legs and feet weren’t in the shape I had hoped for. I was hoping I still had the muscles from walking North Island last year, but I don’t think muscles linger around for 9 months like that. It felt nice to be back on the beach, made me reminisce about my 90-mile days. The 23 km stretch on the sand was rough though. I cheekily got a ride for a few km as I was struggling really badly with my pack weight. I eventually arrived at Riverton and posted back some gear to lighten my pack. After re-supplying, I arrived at Riverton Holiday Park.

Here I met 7 other TA hikers! I was shocked at how many of us there were considering I walked mostly alone last year. For NOBOs; An Australian family and a Belgium hiker called Lauren. Hearing many people say they’re only planning on walking South Island made me sad for how under-repped North Island is. I’ve had many people ask me whether I got depression from all that road walking. It isn’t as bad as people make it out to be (and also depression?? a bit dramatic). North Island is still packed with beautiful experiences that SI can’t offer – such as the trail angel experience, Tararua ranges, Timber trail, Whanganui River, etc. I do understand if they’re on a limited time- visa, however.

Day 4 – Riverton to Colac Bay

A short 12km day to Colac Bay but I needed it. I felt embarrassed with how my body was holding up – I was struggling really badly and felt pain and blisters in places I hadn’t before. Have I really gotten this unfit in the last 9 months?

The view was stunning, alongside a stony beach (Te Haki Beach). It’s day 4 and it still felt surreal that I had started this journey. I felt like I was still in planning mode and felt so under-prepared as I continued to remember all the gear I’d forgotten to bring. My seat pad! How could I forget my seat pad! (It’s definitely not a necessity but I loved that damn thing). I also need to buy a pocket knife. But as long as I can cut cheese with my spoon, what do I need a knife for?

The weather put on another stunning show, and we arrived at Colac Bay craving some shade. There was a pub next to our campsite, with pizzas and burgers. I was unfortunately carrying far too much food and needed to eat my own to lighten my pack.

Day 5 – Colac Bay to Martin’s Hut

The morning was chilly and began with a 4km road walk before reaching the start of longwood forest. Such a beautiful forest it was! This day was so much fun. I arrived at Martin’s hut which was run down, to say the least, but I’d say full of character. A well-used hut that could use with some loving.

I haven’t been sleeping well the last 4 days (and unfortunately this continued on for about 3 weeks). My body was exhausted every day, but my mind felt restless. Perhaps because everything leading up to me being on the trail was in a rush and I hadn’t adjusted to the trail life.

Day 6 – Martin Hut to Meriview Hut

I underestimated this day. We had 28km to Meriview Hut, but didn’t consider how muddy this section was going to be. We’ve been warned and have read comments, but you never really believe it til you experience it. We had knee-deep mud (even thigh-deep if you chose to walk straight through it). Walking around it cautiously took far too much time. My advice is to let go of the hopes of keeping your shoes clean and get yourself dirty from the get-go. Regardless, I found the mud extremely fun and was happy to have experienced at least one muddy forest (as Rakaia forest up North, the competitor of Longwood forest, was all dried up for me last year).

I loved and loved this forest. The funky moss on the trees reminded me of Tararua Ranges. Once we were out of the forest, we walked on a gravel road and a 4WD track in the tall trees.

Here I walked past an American Hiker who introduced himself by his trail name ‘The Machine’. I often spotted his name on the DOC intentions book from here onwards. “THE MACHINE”. Whether he gave himself that name or had been given it, I don’t know. He told me he had hiked all PCT, CDT, and AT and had received the “Tripple Crown of Hiking” title. Then he hinted he didn’t have time to chat as he was in a rush to continue. Americans.

I arrived at Meriview hut—time to clean my legs and shoes.

Day 7 – Meriview Hut to Birchwood

There was a detour in the morning on a gravel road due to property access negotiation (if I remember correctly), before we entered a pine tree forest. It was an extremely hot day, another stunner, but the heat slowed me down incredibly. I told Philipp to move on as my pace wasn’t going to improve throughout the day. Another long day, let’s do this!

Many people think we hikers ponder on philosophical questions of life on the trail, but in reality, it goes a little more like… What was that sharp pain? Is it an injury? Do I need to take a piss? Where is this hut? What can I eat tonight… Wait, what was that pain, is this an injury?

9 km to go – I caught up with Philipp again. We both got lost on this farmland together and decided to cut through some land. The shortcut ended up taking us down an insanely steep hill alongside sheep. After tediously bush bashing tall grass the same height as us, we finally made it to the Birchwood station! I had sent my first re-supply box here and I was nervous to see if it had arrived. The hut was busy with 4 new TA hikers. Here I met Adar from Israel and Connor from Canada.

Week one, done and dusted.