Week 10 – Queen Charlotte Track

The finale of Te Araroa

Day 65 – Queen Charlotte Tavern

After breakfast at this lovely campground (it really was scenic), I got a ride from Lukas to Havelock. I know, it’s not in the greatest spirit of TA to be hitchhiking on my last week but it was all road walk and it didn’t look like I missed out on much.

I spent the whole morning organising admin at a cafe in Havelock – where to camp on Queen Charlotte track, booking a water taxi from Ships Cove, and my flight back to Wellington. This took me much longer than I expected. All these options to camp got me confused!

I finally started today’s walk around 14.00. I arrived at the tavern where they let me pitch my tent for free as long as I bought a meal. Pitching up my tent by myself on this freshly cut lawn while the locals drank their after-work beer felt pretty random. No other hikers. Just me.

It hit me on that night that I only had 3 days left. I should be feeling emotional – right? The big finale, the final push, chariots of fire playing in the background. Instead, I felt very little. Disappointed if anything, for feeling very little.

Day 66 – Queen Charlotte Track

The famous Queen Charlotte track, here we go! The trail from the tavern to the start of QCT was all road walk (still very beautiful). The first day of QCT had the most views of the entire 3 days. My lunch spot looked over the gorgeous coastal view of Marlborough Sounds. It was so bliss.

QCT was busy! Many bikers and day walkers. There were also very few toilets (for a hiker who drinks 4-5L of water a day I pee a lot), and with the busy traffic of people on the track, it was really hard to pee (TMI?).

I arrived at Mistletoe Bay campsite nice and early and wanted to relax by the shore until dinner. As I arrived, I saw about 70 children running around screaming from the top of their lungs. It had turned out there were two different school groups on a camp trip staying here – year 8s and year 10s. Knowing this I should have walked straight up that hill I just came from and camped elsewhere.

This night undoubtedly became my worst evening on TA. It felt like actual hell. I absolutely adore babies and toddlers but screaming kids aged 10+? Immediately no. I told myself I’ll just plug in my earphones and watch LOTR but nothing blocked out the terrifying shrieks of these 12-year-olds.

I heard there is often fluorescence at this bay, so I checked out the water when it got dark, but no luck. Maybe at the next bay. It really was a beautiful spot though. Just watch out for the school groups.

Day 67 – Bay of Many Cove

Another stunning day on QCT! So many bench spots with a view of the sound. It’s crazy people live out here. Would make a peaceful life. For lunch, I decided to walk down to Portage Hotel. I told myself it’ll just be a quick bite (fish and chips) and I’ll be on my way again. I started talking to a German lady who was a former DOC worker in NZ. Several other people at the restaurant joined us for a chat (they saw my huge pack and the convo of TA just started rolling) and before I knew it I was there for almost 2 hours. I could have talked for hours and hours. Feeling worried about the time to reach my camp for the night, I speed-walked for the rest of the day. I started listening to The Hobbit now, narrated by the best, Andy Serkis.

Note to self: Don’t eat fried food during a hike.

DOC sign said 6 hours to Bay of Many Coves which means you can probably crunch it into 4 hours. There were definitely sections where a track became extremely steep, and I was impressed by all the cyclists here.

I finally arrived at the Bay of Many Coves campsite at 17.30. Expecting to spend the night alone, I saw one small tent pitched upon arrival. The campsite had a stunning view overlooking the bay. I quickly set up my soaking wet tent to dry before the night fell and cooked my last dinner on TA. Couscous and tuna. I’ll miss cooking outdoors, rehydrating all the dehydrated ingredients, and appreciating any kind of food because, well, food is energy.

I spent the night chatting with a German cyclist traveling the South Island for 3 months. His photography looked impressive and made me inspired to buy a drone one day ($$). At night this camp spot turned into a possum party fest. We saw about 3-4 confident possums striding around unscared as ever, wekas out and about checking our tents, and even saw a rat hopping across the lawn. A party for the wild animals!

Day 68 – Fernaux Lodge.

There was a shower of rain in the morning. I changed my plans for reaching Schoolhouse Bay and booked a night at Fernaux Lodge for my very last night on TA. This way I can treat myself to fine-dining as a celebration. This did mean a 4:30 a.m. wake-up the next day to catch my 10 a.m. water taxi.

The weather had turned grey and cloudy on this day, though the rain held up. I saw quite a few hikers, all with tiny packs or without one at all as the ferries dropped them off at their accommodation. They would point out my huge pack and ask me why so big. Well…

Today was my last full day of TA but my mind was so distracted I couldn’t take in any of it. Coming to the end of a journey means the beginning of another. My brain was occupied with what was to come AFTER the finish. What’s my next move? Where is my next chapter? I’ve decided to move to Japan, and considered visiting Australia on the way. I also had no flight tickets booked for any of this. Where am I going to store all my belongings? Where am I going to leave my car? So many questions were up in the air.

I told myself to snap out of it. Sarah, this is your goddamn last full day on Te Araroa and you’re thinking about the LOGISTICS of moving countries??? But I don’t think we can help it even if we tried. Our brains are wired to be prepared for what’s next. You see, I was able to fully immerse myself in the nature during Richmond Ranges, but now with the actual finish just at the tip of my fingers, it was different.

I arrived at Fernaux Lodge at 16.30. My very last night. And I still couldn’t feel much. I decided to go with the flow and not push my body to feel any forced emotions. I fine-dined at the lodge by myself with a glass of red wine. Happy last night of TA!

Day 69 – Ships Cove
last day

I woke up at 4.45 am, on the trail by 5 am. It was still pitch black outside. My head torch ran out of battery, but it got lit around 7 am.

As I reached the final finish I started reminiscing back my TA days. How I felt so scared stepping into the unknown. How my mum begged me not to go (thinking I was bush bashing making my own way for the entire country). I was terrified of the feral dogs on the 90-mile-beach, and my Dad’s advice to identify the weakest one out of the pack and kill it to assert dominance (with my pruning knife). Getting lost on the very first day. The day I walked in the middle of a cyclone and saw the end of my life. Ah, can’t forget my wild pig encounter growling at me. Five amazing days canoeing down the Whanganui River. The stunning Tararua ranges. The stunning Richmond Ranges. All the river crossing. All the road walking. All the times I’ve gotten lost and had to backtrack. All the times I’ve cried on the trail. All the incredible people I’ve met. Trail Angels in the North Island, who truly made the experience. My hiking buddies, who made my South Island experience. Finishing alone somewhat felt right to me, as I started on my own after all.

And just like that, I arrived at Ships Cove. I had finished Te Araroa.

I got out my medal I’ve been carrying since St Arnaud and as I looked at it, emotions finally flowed out. I teared up. I made it.

I remember my body instantly feeling slight panic, screaming out no, not yet. I wasn’t ready to stop yet. This journey I loved and adored had come to an end. No more km left to walk. Just the vast ocean in front of me reminding me of the dead end I’m faced with. That made me more emotional and I started crying.

Shortly after, my water taxi came, dropping me off at Picton.
Now it’s time to go home.

I can’t recommend people hard enough to walk this trail. Not for solely seeing the beauty of New Zealand but the journey of it all – both the hardship and the reward. The simple life indulged only in the presence of nature and other hikers. Immersing in the act of generosity from people whose intention is to no more than to just help. Testing our physical ability to its limits and seeing how much more we are actually capable of if we challenge ourselves.

It’s been an incredible journey and I’m lucky to call this country my home.

Aotearoa, it’s been wild and wonderful.