Week 4 – Lake Hawea to Mount Cook

Day 23 – Wanaka to Lake Hawea

From Wanaka to Lake Hawea was an easy flat 26 km. Pierre walked it already and recommended we stop by the Patisserie in Albert Town. I met a NOBO from Romania who was adamant he was going to cross both the Rangitata and Rakaia Rivers. Some people are really dedicated to the thrill. I would have considered Rangitata (the easier river of the two) if I had enough experienced hikers with me for support.

Today’s trail was a mix of an estuary walkway, a road, and a track beside Hawea River. It was an insanely hot day with minimal shade. The hype of the patisserie was lived up to – I had an almond croissant and a spinach pastry for lunch. We arrived at Lake Hawea Holiday Park which was fully packed with families and kids, then it hit me that it was a long weekend. We pitched our tents and tried to relax with screaming kids to our left and right. We eventually got to relax by swimming at the lake.

Day 24 – Rest day to avoid a storm

We had a rest day here to avoid a storm. The weather looked all right from afar and we contemplated hiking but the gale came in from noon and it would have been dangerous to hike up Breast Hill. We hitchhiked back to Wanaka to watch the new Avatar at the cinemas and I couldn’t stop crying during and after the film. (I highly rated the film, and the visuals were amazing).

Day 25 – Lake Hawea to Stody’s Hut

We linked up with Pierre and Adar again, and Sue who I actually met in Bluff. I was unsure of how difficult today’s 1500m climb up would be, so I aimed to at least reach Pakituhi Hut. The climb was beautiful with the view of the blue Lake Hawea behind me. By the time I reached Pakituhi Hut, it was only 2.30 pm so I decided to push to Stody’s Hut where all my buddies were anyway.

Adar and Lake Hawea

Day 26 – Stody’s Hut to Top Timaru Hut

I didn’t like this day. It was one of those frustrating tedious days. Not like the farm day (nothing beats the farm day), but mostly because I underestimated the track and expected an easy day. It was my fault for not researching ahead. There were two options for today – to take the high route or to take the river route. Before I knew I was lost on a cliff of a bank looking like a goat sliding downhill. I lost my camp sandals while bush-bashing back to the actual trail. I don’t even remember coming across a point on the trail where it divides into two different routes. My head must have been somewhere else today.

The highlight of this day was passing by Frances and Robin, a beautiful couple I met on the North Island. I walked with them for a week and they took me in like their daughter. I still remember bawling my eyes out as I said goodbye to them, their company was just so wholesome. I cried a lot more on the North Island. Hiking on my own felt more emotional and I also had more privacy to do so. Now, there were hikers left, right, and centre and I could barely shed a tear without being seen.

I eventually arrived at Top Timaru Hut which was full. Everyone was confused about how I had gotten lost today as it was well-marked throughout the whole day. It’s true. I don’t even know myself. I had an option to crash on the floor but I pitched my tent in the ghastly wind outside to gain some privacy. Everyone was nice in the hut, but I do miss the quiet evenings I had on the North Island.

Day 27 – Camp spot after Ahuriri River

I decided on a head start and woke up at 5 a.m. since I was the slowest out of the pack and didn’t want my buddies waiting for me for the river crossing. The day began with an upward slope of loose black rocks with a wind that felt scary and exciting at the same time. It was insanely cold, but I had no time to get my gloves out as I strictly told myself to keep on moving at least til I reached the top. None of us expected this gale-like wind first thing in the morning. We reached Martha Saddle with a 1600m elevation. We scrambled behind a rock to shelter from the wind, quickly eating OSM bars to gain some energy. The descent from here felt completely different from the other side- no wind, the sun glimmering down on us. Quickly I took off some layers, I wished the struggling SOBOs some luck for the other side.

My headstart quickly turned useless as everyone walked past me within the first 2 hours. We all ate some food at Tin Hut, where we heard stories from SOBOs about some hikers who got washed away trying to cross the Ahuriri River after a storm. The rest of the day’s hike was enjoyable but semi-confusing, with two different tracks on either side of a river. I hiked with Philipp and Alan, all of us getting lost a few times and having to backtrack on this farmland. We eventually reached the crossing of the Ahuriri River, where Sue, Pierre, Alan, and Adar were waiting for us. We quickly stripped down our pants and crossed the river linking arms. The water level reached up to my upper thighs, and the current was somewhat strong enough to make me feel uneasy. I wouldn’t have died crossing it alone but I was grateful for the teamwork.

We walked for another hour til we found some nice flat clearing near a stream. God I was exhausted, I took an insane amount of time pitching up my tent with the little energy I had. We also hit a 500 km mark somewhere along today. Wew!

Day 28 – Ahuriri Camp to Lake Ohau

My sleep is slowly improving on the trail! It was 3 degrees in the morning when I woke up, and I set off after eating my porridge. The trail led me through swamps under tussocks first thing in the morning, which felt freezing on my toes. I have an irrational fear of losing my fingers and toes from frostbite. It was never this cold but my mind goes that way.

I started my period on this day, with fever-like symptoms. My body refused to move and had a mind of its own. I gave in and accepted my snail’s pace for the day. The track was actually really beautiful, frustrating at times having to find the poles hidden behind long tussocks. Once I was over the hill, I was able to see the stunning Lake Ohau on the other side. The descending track on the forest was stunning. I also met many lovely SOBOs on this day (many Australians) and enjoyed talking to every one of them. I was having a sour morning but this day quickly turned into one of the more enjoyable days by the afternoon, despite my period.

I eventually arrived at Lake Ohau Lodge after a long day. The boys asked why I was so slow today to which I was tempted to reply back with whether they have to walk with a bleeding uterus on the trail. But I didn’t.

We all decided to fine dine at the lodge with a 3-course meal. We then planned the next stretch – a detour to Mount Cook to hike up the Mueller Hut Route instead of biking from Lake Tekapo to Twizel.

Day 29 – Lake Ohau to Mount Cook

I woke up slightly hungover this morning. Damn the red wine, but it tastes so good. Today was a zero-day as we hitched to Twizel with these lovely Australian girls at the lodge. They happened to be driving a 7-seater SUV just for themselves. After re-supplying in Twizel we successfully hitch-hiked to Mount Cook Village and set up our tent by the busy campsite.

It was really nice to relax and rest for the afternoon with the pretty sight of snow-top mountains surrounding us. I’ve been here with my sisters and we walked the Hooker Valley Loop Track, but I hadn’t done the Mueller Hut Route yet so I was excited for tomorrow.